Water Lily Pond Crop Top [FREE Crochet Pattern]

For creation these crochet top I was inspired by the astonishingly beautiful water lilies pond. White, soft pink flowers shining on the water surface of the pond, framed by magnificent green leaves. Beautiful, isn’t it? 😊

This is a very simple beginner friendly project. You have to know the basis: how to chain, slip stitch, single crochet and double crochet, no any decreases or increases. Super super EASY!


If you like my work and want to support me, or you’re interested in purchasing this pattern in a downloadable, printable PDF format, it is available for purchase on my Payment Page below. 

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Pattern notes:

  • It’s a very easy two piece construction that’s sewn together after.
  • This is a crop top pattern. Add rows for a longer fitting top.

Materials:

  • Any No.2 Sports weight yarn
    I used Alize Cotton Gold No.2 (55% cotton, 45% acrylic) 361 yds/3.53 oz (330 m/100 g)
    Asparagus (103) – 1 skein;
    Ballerina Pink (518) – 1 skein;
    Nude (401) – 1 skein;
    White (55) – 1 skein;
    Any Grey (with lurex) yarn – 1 skein;
  • 2.50mm Crochet Hook or other to archive gauge
  • Scissors
  • Yarn needle

Yarn needed: 630(690, 780, 830, 930, 1000) Yards

Gauge

Crochet Gauge (4in x 4in / 10cm) (blocked)
21 sts x 15 rows
remember to check your gauge!

ABBREVIATIONS

CH = chain
SC = single crochet
DC = double crochet
Sl St= slip stitch
SK=skip
REP=repeat
ST=stitch

SIZES

XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL

Finished Measurements (after blocked)

Panels (make 2)

Body

Make the base chain 91 (99, 107, 117, 129, 139). The first 87 (95, 103, 113, 125, 135) chain stitches make the foundation chain, while the last 3 make the turning chain) in Asparagus (green) color. Total 88, 96, 104, 114, 126, 136 sts in row.

ROW 1 [RS]: DC into the fourth chain from the hook and work 1 DC into each of the next 87 (95, 103, 113, 125, 135) sts, turn
ROW 2 [WS]: CH 1 (doesn’t count as first st), SC in each of next 88 (96, 104, 114, 126, 136) sts, turn

Rows 3-38(40,44,46,48,52): Repeat Rows 1-2.
For a longer length top, add more rows here. Repeat rows 1-2 until desired length is reached.
You’ll have a total of 38(40,44,46,48,52) rows

For color changing, you can follow this chart or make your own (see pic 2)
When you crochet grey with lurex yarn on RS side, crochet the mesh:
Using Grey with lurex yarn [any RS row]: *DC, CH, skip the next st, DC in next st, repeat from * (see the pic 2.1)

Straps (right shoulder, left when worn)

In the following row we will only be working partially across and leaving the remaining Sts unworked.

Row 39(41,45,47,49,53) [RS]: skip 15(17,19,21,23,26) CH 3 in next st (count as first DC), DC in the next 15 (15, 15, 15, 17, 17) st, turn. (16 (16,16,16,18,18) sts)

Row 40(42,46,48,50,54) [WS]: CH 1 (doesn’t count as first st), SC in each of next 16 (16, 16, 16, 18, 18) sts, turn. (16 (16,16,16,18,18) sts)

Row 41(43,47,49,51,55) [RS]: CH 3 in next st (count as first DC), DC in the next 15 (15, 15, 15, 17, 17) st, turn. (16 (16,16,16,18,18) sts)

Repeat previous 2 rows.
You will end on a Row 60(64, 68, 70, 76, 78)
Fasten off.

Straps (left shoulder, right when worn)

Lay your panel out with the completed shoulder on the right hand side. You will be leaving 57 ( 63, 69, 77, 85, 92) Sts unworked at the center neckline. Counting over from the last St made in Row 39(41, 45, 47, 49, 53) of the first shoulder.

Row 39(41,45,47,49,53) [RS]: skip 28(32,136,42,46,50) sts, CH 3 in next st (count as first DC), DC in the next 15 (15, 15, 15, 17, 17) st, turn. (16 (16,16,16,18,18) sts)

Row 40(42,46,48,50,54) [WS]: CH 1 (doesn’t count as first st), SC in each of next 16 (16, 16, 16, 18, 18) sts, turn. (16 (16,16,16,18,18) sts)

Row 41(43,47,49,51,55) [RS]: CH 3 in next st (count as first DC), DC in the next 15 (15, 15, 15, 17, 17) st, turn. (16 (16,16,16,18,18) sts)

Repeat previous 2 rows.
You will end on a Row 60(64, 68, 70, 76, 78)

Fasten off, leave a long tail for seaming.

Joining

Place your back and front panels together, RS facing. Sew the straps together using your seaming method of choice. Next, sew down the sides of the top using the same method. Be sure to line the back and front panel up evenly. (pic 3)

Neckline, Arm Hole and Bottom Edge Trim

Using Asparagus green yarn (or any you like) add a shell border. (pic 4)

Neckline Trim

With your top right side facing out, join yarn to one of the shoulder seams with a Sl St. (pic 5)

Rnd 1: CH 1 (do not count as a st), 1 slip stitch into the same st, * skip 2 sts, Work 7 DC into the next st, skip 2 sts, sl st in the next stitch to create the shell. Repeat from * evenly around the neck opening. Join to the first Sc with a Sl St. Fasten off and weave in all ends.

When you get to the place where you did your first st and you have a few less or more st to finish the shell, it’s ok, just undo some stistches and then crochet them again, slipping or adding a few stitches to achieve the pattern. (pic 5)

Arm Hole Trim

With your top right side facing out, join yarn with a Sl St to the seam at the underarm. (pic 6)

Rnd 1: CH 1 (do not count as a st), 1 slip stitch into the same st, * skip 2 sts, Work 7 DC into the next st, skip 2 sts, sl st in the next stitch to create the shell. Repeat from * evenly around opening of arm. Join to the first Sc with a Sl St. Fasten off and repeat on other side.

Bottom Trim

With your top RS out, join yarn with a Sl St to the bottom hem. (pic 7)

Rnd 1: CH 1 (do not count as a st), 1 slip stitch into the same st, * skip 2 sts, Work 7 DC into the next st, skip 2 sts, sl st in the next stitch to create the shell. Repeat from * evenly around. Join to the first Sc with a Sl St. Fasten off and weave in all ends.

Copyright notice:
You may not reproduce any of the photos or the text without obtaining written permission from me first. 
Thank you!

How to knit fair isle Zodiac Top for XS ( S, M, L, XL, XXL sizes [FREE knitting pattern]

Summer is in full swing! Let’s knit this trendy summer top! It can be knitted with any sign of the zodiac.

If you’re interested in purchasing this knitting top pattern or any of my other patterns in a downloadable, printable PDF format, they’re available for purchase on my Payment Page below. 

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SIZE

XS ( S, M, L, XL, XXL)

Materials you’ll need for this colorwork hat knitting project
– US 8 (5mm) circular needles
– US 6 (4 mm) circular needles or size to obtain gauge

Any aran weight yarn (1 skein is 50g)
White 3 (4, 5, 5, 6, 6)
Grey – 1

GAUGE:
10 x 10 cm 4 x 4 inch = 17 stitches in width and 22
rows/rounds on US 8 (5 mm) in height with stockinette
stitch, after blocking.

Skill: Intermediate

Notes
The top is worked with circular needle, bottom up. Front and back pieces are worked separately. Zodiac sign is on the front side.

STICH GLOSSARY
P = Purl
K = Knit
Rnd(s) = Round(s)
Rem =Remain(ing)
st(s) = Stitch(es)
BO=Bind Off

Zodiac sign Top Knitting Pattern

FRONT PIECE:

Brim:
With white color on US 6 (4 mm) needles cast on 84 (92,100, 108, 116, 132) stitches.
REMEMBER the first st is always slip, the last is always knit.
Row 1: sl st, K2, P2, K3, turn work.
Row 2: sl st, P2, K2, P2, K, turn work.
Repeat 1-2 rows for 7 times total (14 rows).

Body:
Then start to knit in stockinette stitch on US 8 (5mm).
Row 15: all knit. On this row decrease 14-16-16-18-18-22 stitches evenly on the row 70-76-84-90-98-110
stitches
Row 16: all purl.
Work in stockinette stitch until the piece measures 7-9-11-13-15-17 cm from the cast-on edge, with the next row from the right side.

Start to knit colorwork (chart A).
Row 1: Work stockinette stitch over the next 18-21-25-28-32-38 stitches, work A1 over the next 34 stitches, work stockinette stitch over the last 18-21-25-28-32-38 stitches, reading rows from right to left, turn work.
Row 2: Work stockinette stitch over the next 18-21-25-28-32-38 stitches, work A1 over the next 34 stitches, work stockinette stitch over the last 18-21-25-28-32-38 stitches, reading rows from left to right, turn work.

Continue 1-42 rows and then continue with stocking stitch
Row 43: all knit
Row 44: all purl
Repeat until the piece measures 21-23-24-25-26-26 cm from the cast-on edge, with the next row from the right side.

Armholes decreases:
Cast off 2-2-4-4-6-6 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows for the armholes = 66-72-76-82-86-98 stitches.
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of each row from the right side a total of 12-13-13-15-15-19 times. Continue to decrease for the armholes; you will cast off the neck before you are finished decreasing for the armholes.

Neck decreases:
AT THE SAME TIME, when the piece measures 27-29-30-32-33-35 cm and the next row is from the right side,
cast off the middle 10-12-14-14-16-18 stitches for the neck. The shoulders are finished separately – place the first
stitches on a thread (left shoulder).
Continue to decrease for the armholes and decrease 1 stitch for the neck on each row from the right side 9 times.
When all the decreases for the armhole and neck are finished there are 7-8-9-10-11-12 stitches on the shoulder.
Work until the piece measures 41-43-45-47-49-51 cm. Cast off with knit from the right side.

Left shoulder:
Place the stitches from the thread on circular needle size 5 mm. Start from the wrong side and continue to decrease for the armhole and decrease 1 stitch for the neck on each row from the right side 9 times. When all the decreases
for the armhole and neck are finished there are 7-8-9-10-11-12 stitches on the shoulder. Work until the piece measures 41-43-45-47-49-51 cm. Cast off with knit from the right side.

BACK PIECE:


Brim:
With white color on US 6 (4 mm) needles cast on 84 (92,100, 108, 116, 132) stitches.
REMEMBER the first st is always slip, the last is always knit.
Row 1: sl st, K2, P2, K3, turn work.
Row 2: sl st, P2, K2, P2, K, turn work.
Repeat 1-2 rows for 7 times total (14 rows).

Body:
Then start to knit in stockinette stitch on US 8 (5mm).
Work stockinette stitch until until the piece measures 21-23-24-25-26-26 cm from the cast-on edge, with the next row from the right side.

Armholes decreases:
Cast off 2-2-4-4-6-6 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows for the armholes = 66-72-76-82-86-98 stitches.
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of each row from the right side a total of 12-13-13-15-15-19 times. Continue to decrease for the armholes; you will cast off the neck before you are finished decreasing for the armholes.

Neck decreases:
AT THE SAME TIME, when the piece measures 34-36-37-39-40-42 cm and the next row is from the right side,
cast off the middle 18-20-20-20-20-22 stitches for the neck. The shoulders are finished separately – place the first stitches on a thread (right shoulder).
Continue to decrease for the armhole and decrease 1 stitch for the neck on each row from the right side 5-5-6-6-7-7 times. When all the decreases for the armhole and neck are finished there are 7-8-9-10-11-12 stitches on the shoulder. Work until the piece measures 41-43-45-47-49-51 cm. Cast off with knit from the right side.

Right shoulder:
Place the stitches from the thread on circular needle size 5 mm. Start from the wrong side and continue to decrease for the armhole and decrease 1 stitch for the neck on each row from the right side 5-5-6-6-7-7 times. When all the decreases for the armhole and neck are finished there are 7-8-9-10-11-12 stitches on the shoulder. Work until the piece measures 41-43-45-47-49-51 cm. Cast off with knit from the right side.

Assembly:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew the side seams, leaving a 5 cm split at the bottom.
Sleeve-edges:
Start at the side seam, from the right side. Use circular needle size 4 mm and knit up 76-84-92-96-104-116 stitches around the armhole – number of stitches must be divisible by 4. Work rib in the round (knit 2, purl 2) for 2 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. Work the other sleeve-edge in the same way.

Neck:
Start at the shoulder seam, from the right side. Use circular needle size 4 mm and knit up 92-100-104-108-112-116 stitches around the neck – number of stitches must be divisible by 4. Work rib in the round (knit 2, purl 2) for 2 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl.

Copyright notice:
You may not reproduce any of the photos or the text without obtaining written permission from me first. 
Thank you!