Colorblock Oversized Sweater [FREE Crochet Pattern]

I’m so excited to share my FREE Colorblock Oversized Crochet Sweater. The sweater is very stylish and comfortable and has a wavy diagonal stripes.

This sweater is worked from the bottom up. The pattern is made in 4 separate pieces and then sewn together.


Copyright notice:
You may not reproduce any of the photos or the text without obtaining written permission from me first. 
Thank you!


This crochet sweater is 21” (53 cm) wide, 21,5 (55 cm) long and 15” (38 cm) sleeve length – the full 9 sizes (from XS-to 5X)  can be found in the paid version.

Get the free pattern BELOW!

Sizes available in the paid version:


If you like my work and want to support me, or you’re interested in purchasing full version of this pattern (including all sizes from XS to 5X) in a downloadable, printable PDF format, it is available for purchase on my Payment Page below. 

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Materials:

  • Any Worsted Weight (4) Yarn
    Pistachio green 200g
    Black 200g
    White 200g
    This yardage is approximate, so as the yardage will vary depends on your type of yarn
  • 5.00mm Crochet Hook (H)
  • Scissors
  • Needle

GAUGE

Crochet Gauge Blocked (4in x 4in / 10cm)
13 sts x 10 rows = 4” in half double crochet

ABBREVIATIONS

Ch = chain
Hdc = half double crochet
Hdc-blo = half double crochet back loop only
Hdc-slst = half double crochet slip stitch
Sl st = slip stitch
Sc = single crochet
Blo = back loop only
Sk = skip
Rep = repeat
Rnd = round
St = stitch

FRONT BODY PANEL
RIBBING

Using white yarn and crochet hook 5.00 mm (H)

ROW 1: ch 18, 1 hdc into second ch from hook and each ch across. Total of 17 st, turn

ROWS 2-47: ch 1 ( do not count as a st ), 1 hdc-blo into each st across. Total of 17 st, turn

BODY

Rotate your work, we are going to make Row 1 of the main body of the Front Panel into the ends of the rows of the ribbing.

ROW 1: Ch 1 (do not count as a st), *1 hdc in the next st, 2 hdc in next st. Repeat from * across the entire row, in the end hdc 1, turn. Total of 70 st, turn

ROWS 2-42: Ch 1 (do not count as a st), 1 Hdc-blo into each St across (See Chart A for XS), turn.

Tie off, leave a long tail for shoulder seaming.

BACK BODY PANEL
RIBBING

Work the same as Front, but use Chart B

SLEEVE PANEL ( Make one Green and one Black)

Using green or black yarn and crochet hook 5.00 mm (H)

ROW 1: ch 56, 1 hdc-slst into second ch from hook, 14 hdc-slst, 40 hdc. Total of 55 st, turn

ROW 2: ch 1 ( do not count as a st ), 40 hdc-blo, 14 hdc-slst. Total of 55 st, turn

ROWS 3-24: Rep Rows 1& 2

Tie off, leave a long tail for sewing.

JOINING

Place the two body panels together and sew in the wrong side using the tail that we left earlier. Sew in 21 st per side, leaving about a 8.50 ″/ 22 cm neckhole.
(Check pic 1 blue color).

If you’d like a smaller or bigger neck hole, you can sew more or less stitches from the shoulder seam.

Using the tail that we left earlier, sew the shoulder seam of the main panel which should be in the middle of the sleeves panel. (Check pic 1 orange color)

Fold your sweater in half at the shoulder seam and start sewing on the wrong side. Sew up each side of the sweater and sleeves (Check pic 2 green color).

NECKLINE

Attach green yarn to the middle of one of the neckhole sides and ch 1.

RND 1: Ch 1, Sc evenly around the opening of the neckline. Sl St to the first St to join.

RND 2: Ch 1, Sc evenly around the opening of the neckline. Sl St to the first St to join.

Tie off.
Weave in all the ends.

ENJOY!

Since you like sweaters patterns, these patterns might interest you too?

Crochet Sweaters Patterns

To crochet sweaters is amazing project to make.

Recently I added a few patterns to my sweater’s collection. They are not for a beginner, because contains tapestry crochet, but honestly they are simple. You just do half double crochet most of the project.

If you are my follower you definitly know I’am truly passionate about Chicken. That is why the Hen Sweater was one of the first.


If you’re not familiar with what I’m talking about, I’ll include a links below

Also I really like Bears!

Of course, if I accidentally met a bear in the forest or somewhere else, I wouldn’t love him so much 😁 but Bear sweater is amazing and I am really happy to wear it this fall.

These Patterns are paid, not free, don’t be disappointed and understand that this is my business, but anyway I will be glad to answer any of your questions!

Also I have many many interesting FREE Patterns.

Thank you in advance!

Happy Crocheting!


If you want to order any of my products, just select the color and model – and I will make it to order, just for you!
To order fill out Order Form

Granny Stripe Crochet Shirt [FREE Written Pattern]


If you like my work and want to support me, or you’re interested in purchasing this pattern in a downloadable, printable PDF format, it is available for purchase on my Payment Page below. 

Payment Page

SHORT SUMMARY

Two simple granny hexagons are the foundation. Work two identical hexagons in the circle, then work back-and-forth, adding borders. Lastly, finish off the shirt with a collar and sew the buttons.

Materials:

  • Any No.2 Sports weight yarn
  • 3.50mm Crochet Hook or other to archive gauge
  • Scissors
  • Buttons
  • Yarn needle

Yarn needed:
Brown – 250 (300, 300, 450, 450, 500, 550, 600, 600) g;
Green – 50g.

GAUGE

Crochet Gauge (4in x 4in / 10cm)
23 sts x 12 rows = 4” in double crochet granny pattern

SIZES

XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL, 3X, 4X, 5X

Finished Measurements

ABBREVIATIONS

CH = chain
DC = double crochet
Sl St= slip stitch
SC=single crochet
SK=skip
REP=repeat
RND=round
ST=stitch
tch – turning chain
RS – right side
WS – wrong side
SP – space
CH1SP – the space created by chaining 1 in the previous row/round
CH2SP – the space created by chaining 2 in the previous row/round
CH4SP – the space created by chaining 4 in the previous row/round

Hexagons (make 2)

Using brown color, Ch 5, sl st to first ch to form a ring. (see Pic 3)

RND 1: Ch 3, 2 dc in ring, ch 2, *3 dc in ring, ch 2, Rep from * 4 times more, sl st to join, 3 sl st

RND 2: Ch 3, (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) all in first ch2sp, ch 1, *(3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) all in next ch2sp, ch 1, rep from * 4 times more, sl st to join, 3 sl st

RND 3: Ch 3, (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) all in first ch2sp, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch1sp, ch 1, *(3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) all in next ch2sp, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch1sp, ch 1; repeat from * 4 more times, sl st to join, 3 sl st into next ch2sp.

RND 4: Ch 3, (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) all in first ch2sp, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 1) in each ch1sp to corner, *(3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) all in next ch2sp, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 1) in each ch1sp to corner; repeat from * 4 more times, sl st to join, 3 sl st into next ch2sp.

RNDS 5-19(21,23,25, 27, 29, 31, 33, 35): Repeat Rnd 4

Bring opposite corners of hexagon (the 1st and 4th corner, for example) together to fold the hexagon into an “L” shape with the RS facing out. Repeat with second hexagon. (Pic 4)

Right Back Panel

Turn your shirt right side out. Then start to crochet back and forth, forming back side

ROW 20 (22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36) [RS]: Ch3 on the bottom corner space (pics 5,6), (2 dc, ch 1) all into first corner space, (3 dc, ch 1) into each space till next corner, 3 dc into last ch2sp, turn

ROW 21 (23, 25, 27, 29, 31, 33, 35, 37) [WS]: Ch 4, 3 dc into next ch1sp, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 1) into each ch1sp to end, ch, dc into 3rd ch of previous row, turn

ROW 22 (24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38) [RS]: Ch3, (2 dc, ch 1) all in first ch1sp, (3 dc, ch 1) in each ch1sp to end, 3 dc into last ch2sp, turn

ROW 23 (25, 27, 29, 31, 33, 35, 37, 39) [WS]: Ch 4, 3 dc into next ch1sp, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 1) into each ch1sp to end, ch, dc into 3rd ch of previous row, turn

ROWS 24-29 (32, 34, 37, 40, 43, 46, 49, 51): All RS Rowss Rep Row 22 (24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38) / All WS Rows Rep Row 23 (25, 27, 29, 31, 33, 35, 37, 39)

Fasten off, leave a long tail for seaming.

Left Back Panel

ROW 20 (22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36) [RS]: Ch3 on the upper corner space (pics 7, 8), (2 dc, ch 1) all into first corner space, (3 dc, ch 1) into each space till next corner, 3 dc into last ch2sp, turn

Repeat Rows of the Right Back Panel.

Seaming

Sew on the wrong side, use which ever method you prefer to sew. Sew back seam and seams on the top of the sleeves Both sides are sewn the same. (pic 9)

Right Front Panel

Then start to crochet back and forth, forming neckline decreases

ROW 20 (22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36) [RS]: Ch3 on the bottom corner space (pic 10), (2 dc, ch 1) all into first corner space, (3 dc, ch 1) into each space till next corner, dc into 3rd ch of previous row, turn

ROW 21 (23, 25, 27, 29, 31, 33, 35, 37) [WS]: Ch 4, 3 dc into next chsp (skip the first chsp), ch 1, (3 dc, ch 1) into each ch1sp to end, ch, dc into 3rd ch of previous row, turn

ROW 22 (24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38) [RS]: Ch3, (2 dc, ch 1) all in first ch1sp, (3 dc, ch 1) in each ch1sp to end, dc into 3rd dc of prev rnd, turn

ROW 23 (25, 27, 29, 31, 33, 35, 37, 39) [WS]: Ch 4, 3 dc into next chsp (skip the first chsp), ch 1, (3 dc, ch 1) into each ch1sp to end, ch, dc into 3rd ch of previous row, turn

ROWS 24-29 (32, 34, 37, 40, 43, 46, 49, 51): All RS Rows Rep Row 22 (24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38) / All WS Rows Rep Row 23 (25, 27, 29, 31, 33, 35, 37, 39)
Fasten off.

Left Front Panel

Make left panel the same as right, but work not on your right side but on the wrong side. Turn off panel right side facing down and repeat all rnds of the Right Front Panel.
Fasten off. Turn off panel wrong side facing down (pic 11).

Adding Bottom Length

Size 5X don’t do any additional length, unless you want your shirt will be longer.
Sizes XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL, 3X, 4X continue the rows below.

With RS of shirt facing, attach yarn at what will be the bottom, front left corner. (Pic 12)

ROW 1 [RS]: Ch3 on the bottom front left corner space, (2 dc, ch 1) all into first corner space, (3 dc, ch 1) into each space till next corner, 3 dc into last ch2sp, turn

ROW 2: [WS]: Ch 4, 3 dc into next ch1sp, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 1) into each ch1sp to end, ch, dc into 3rd ch of previous row, turn

ROW 3 [RS]: Ch3, (2 dc, ch 1) all in first ch1sp, (3 dc, ch 1) in each ch1sp to end, 3 dc into last ch4sp, turn
Size 4X stop here and fasten off. Sizes XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL, 3X continue the rows below.

ROW 4: [WS]: Ch 4, 3 dc into next ch1sp, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 1) into each ch1sp to end, ch, dc into 3rd ch of previous row, turn

ROW 5 [RS]: Rep Row 3

ROW 6: [WS]: Rep Row 4
Size 3X stop here and fasten off. Sizes XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL continue the rows below.

ROW 7 [RS]: Rep Row 3
Size XXL stop here and fasten off. Sizes XS, S, M, L, XL continue the rows below.

ROW 8 [WS]: Rep Row 4

ROW 9 [RS]: Rep Row 3

ROW 10 [WS]: Rep Row 4
Sizes L, XL stop here and fasten off. Sizes XS, S, M continue the rows below.

ROW 11 [RS]: Rep Row 3

ROW 12 [WS]: Rep Row 4

ROW 13 [RS]: Rep Row 3
Size M stop here and fasten off. Sizes XS, S continue the rows below.

ROW 14 [WS]: Rep Row 4

ROW 15 [RS]: Rep Row 3
Size S stop here and fasten off. Size XS continue the rows below.

ROW 16 [WS]: Rep Row 4

ROW 17 [RS]: Rep Row 3

ROW 18 [WS]: Rep Row 4
Size XS stop here and fasten off.

Collar

Turn your shirt right side out. Crochet the collar on the right side.

Row 1 [RS]: Ch3 on the upper corner space (pic 14), (2 dc, ch 1) all in first corner space (pic 15), (3 dc, ch 1) in each space around the neck area (pic 16) and back down to the other side, 3 dc into last corner (pic 17), turn

Row 2 [WS]: Ch 4, 3 dc in the first ch1sp (pic 18), (3 dc, ch 1) in each ch1sp to end, dc into 3rd ch of previous row (pic 19), turn

Row 3 [RS]: Ch3, (2 dc, ch 1) all in first ch1sp, (3 dc, ch 1) in each ch1sp to end, 3 dc into last ch4sp, turn

Row 4 [WS]: Ch 4, 3 dc in the first ch1sp, (3 dc, ch 1) in each ch1sp to end, dc in 3rd ch of previous row, turn

Repeat 3&4 rows for 10 rows or desired length.

Fasten off. Weave in all the ends.

Collar and Bottom Edge Trim

With RS of shirt facing, attach green yarn at what will be the upper front left corner. (Pic 20)

Row 1 [RS]: Ch on the upper corner space (pic 21), sc (pic 22), *ch3 (pic 23), dc 3 in the space (pic 24), sc in next space (pic 25), rep from * till corner ( ch 3, dc 3, sc in the same space, ch3, dc3, sc in next space (pic 26), then repeat till end (pic 28)

Fasten off. Weave in all the ends.

Adding the Buttons

The placement of the buttons will depend on how you want your shirt to fit.

Sew the buttons into the left front panel (when you’re wearing it) (pic 28).

Adding the Pockets

Crochet the pockets on the right side.
Count 16 (17, 19, 20, 23, 24, 27, 28, 28) stitches and attach yarn. (Pic 29)

Row 1 [RS]: Ch3, (2 dc, ch 1) all in first space (pic 30), (3 dc, ch 1) in next 6 (7, 7, 8, 8, 9, 9, 10, 11) spaces, turn (pic 31). Total of 27 (31, 31, 35, 35, 39, 39, 43, 47) st

Row 2 [WS]: Ch 4, 3 dc in the first ch1sp, (3 dc, ch 1) in each ch1sp to end, dc in 3rd ch of previous row, turn

Row 3 [RS]: Ch3, (2 dc, ch 1) all in first space (pic 32), (3 dc, ch 1) till end, 3 dc into last ch4sp, turn

Rep rows2&3 following the colour sequence

For XS, S, M, L
1-4 rows: brown
5-6 rows: green
7-8 rows: brown
9-10 rows: green
11-14 rows: brown

For XL, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X
1-6 rows: brown
7-8 rows: green
9-10 rows: brown
11-12 rows: green
13-18 rows: brown

Fasten off,
Weave in ends.
ENJOY!

Copyright notice:
You may not reproduce any of the photos or the text without obtaining written permission from me first. 
Thank you!

Abstract Face Tee Crochet Pattern for XS/S, M/L , XL/2X , 3X/4X sizes [FREE Crochet Pattern]

Hi there, if you’re here for your first time, welcome! I just finished a new crochet tee pattern.

So as the pattern contains tapestry crochet it is considered that this is not for very very beginner, but tapestry crochet only uses basic stitches, such as single crochet, half double crochet, or double crochet. So, this technique is totally accessible to beginner crocheters

It’s a simple two panel project, but you still end up with cute summer crochet top / vest.

And to decorate the edges I recommend to do a blanket stitch edging and create the eyelashes (optional).

If you’re interested in purchasing this crochet tee pattern or any of my other patterns in a downloadable, printable PDF format, they’re available for purchase on my Payment Page below. 

Payment Page

Notes

You need to know

  • How to make intarsia crochet

A pattern is created in the fabric by changing yarn/colors multiple times within a row
By following a chart where each square represents a double crochet, you will know when to change colors

I recommend to highlighte your size to avoid mistakes.

Materials:

  • Yarn Weight 2: Fine-Sport ( I used yarn with lurex)
    Grey 200 (250,250,300,300,350,350,400,400) g or 700 (875, 875, 10501 1050, 1225,1225,1400, 1400) yards
  • Black 50g or 175 yards
  • Pink 50g or 175 yards
  • A little bright pink for blanket stitch

  • 2.50mm Crochet Hook or other to archive gauge
  • Yarn Needle

Gauge

Crochet Gauge (4in x 4in / 10cm) (blocked)
20 x 11 in Double Crochet
remember to check your gauge!

Sizes:

XS/S, M/ L, XL/ 2X, 3X/ 4X

Finished Measurements:

ABBREVIATIONS

CH = chain
SC = single crochet
DC = double crochet
HDC = half double crochet
Sl St= slip Stitch
DC2Tog = double crochet two together
SK=skip
REP=repeat
ST=stitch
RL= reading rows from right to left
LR=reading rows from left to right

Front Panel

Make the base chain 102 (122, 142, 162). The first 99 (119, 139, 159) chain stitches make the foundation chain, while the last 3 make the turning chain) in gray color.

ROW1: DC into the fourth chain from the hook and work 1 DC into each of the next 99 (119, 139, 159) sts, turn
ROW 2: CH3 (counts as first st), DC in each of next 99 (119, 139, 159) sts, turn

XS/S, M/L: No rows
ROWS 3-4: CH3 (counts as first st), DC in each of next __ (__, 139, 159) sts, turn

XS/S, M/L, XL/2X: No rows
ROWS 5-6: CH3 (counts as first st), DC in each of next __ (__, __,159) sts, turn

Then crochet Tapestry pattern (see the written pattern and Graph)

Tapestry pattern (Graph XS/S, M/L, XL/2X, 3X/4X)

ROWS 1-2: Gray x 100 (120, 140, 160), turn
ROW 3 [RL]: Gray x 29 (39, 49, 59), Black x 10, Gray x 61 (71, 81, 91), turn
ROW 4 [LR]: Gray x 57 (67, 77, 87), Black x 14, Gray x 29 (39, 49, 59), turn
ROW 5 [RL]: Gray x 38 (48, 58, 68), Black x 6, Gray x 56 (66, 76, 86), turn
ROW 6 [LR]: Gray x 55 (65, 75, 85), Black x 5, Gray x 40 (50, 60, 70), turn
ROW 7 [RL]: Gray x 41 (51, 61, 71), Black x 4, Gray x 55 (65, 75, 85), turn
ROW 8 [LR]: Gray x 55 (65, 75, 85), Black x 4, Gray x 41 (51, 61, 71), turn
ROW 9 [RL]: Gray x 41 (51, 61, 71), Black x 5, Gray x 54 (64, 74, 84), turn
ROW 10 [LR]: Gray x 54 (64, 74, 87), Black x 13, Gray x 33 (43, 53, 63), turn
ROW 11 [RL]: Gray x 28 (38, 48, 58), Black x 18, Gray x 54 (64, 74, 84), turn
ROW 12 [LR]: Gray x 54 (64, 74, 84), Black x 3, Gray x 9, Black x 9, Gray x 25 (35, 45, 55), turn
ROW 13 [RL]: Gray x 24 (34, 44, 54), Black x 5, Gray x 13, Black x 4, Gray x 54 (64, 74, 84), turn
ROW 14 [LR]: Gray x 53 (63, 73, 83), Black x 24, Gray x 23 (33, 43, 53), turn
ROW 15 [RL]: Gray x 23 (33, 43, 53), Black x 24, Gray x 53 (63, 73, 83), turn
ROW 16 [LR]: Gray x 52 (62, 72, 82), Black x 5, Gray x 13, Black x 5, Gray x 25 (35, 45, 55), turn
ROW 17 [RL]: Gray x 27 (37, 47, 57), Black x 8, Gray x 9, Black x 4, Gray x 52 (62, 72, 82), turn
ROW 18 [LR]: Gray x 51 (61, 71, 81), Black x 19, Gray x 30 (40, 50, 60), turn
ROW 19 [RL]: Gray x 34 (44, 54, 64), Black x 15, Gray x 51 (61, 71, 81), turn
ROW 20 [LR]: Gray x 50 (60, 70, 80), Black x 5, Gray x 45 (55, 65, 75), turn
ROW 21 [RL]: Gray x 45 (55, 65, 75), Black x 6, Gray x 49 (59, 69, 79), turn
ROW 22 [LR]: Gray x 33 (43, 53, 63), Black x 21, Gray x 46 (56, 66, 76), turn
ROW 23 [RL]: Gray x 14 (24, 34, 44), Pink x 15, Gray x 19, Black x 21, Gray x 31 (41, 51, 61), turn
ROW 24 [LR]: Gray x 30 (40, 50, 60), Black x 19, Gray x 21, Pink x 19, Gray x 11 (21, 31, 41), turn
ROW 25 [RL]: Gray x 9 (19, 29, 39), Pink x 23, Gray x 34, Black x 4, Gray x 30 (40, 50, 60), turn
ROW 26 [LR]: Gray x 30 (40, 50, 60), Black x 3, Gray x 34, Pink x 25, Gray x 8 (18, 28, 38), turn
ROW 27 [RL]: Gray x 7 (17, 27, 37), Pink x 28, Gray x 32, Black x 4, Gray x 29 (39, 49, 59), turn
ROW 28 [LR]: Gray x 29 (39, 49, 59), Black x 4, Gray x 31, Pink x 30, Gray x 6 (16, 26, 36), turn
ROW 29 [RL]: Gray x 6 (16, 26, 36), Pink x 30, Gray x 31, Black x 4, Gray x 29 (39, 49, 59), turn
ROW 30 [LR]: Gray x 29 (39, 49, 59), Black x 4, Gray x 31, Pink x 30, Gray x 6 (16, 26, 36), turn
ROW 31 [RL]: Gray x 7 (17, 27, 37), Pink x 29, Gray x 31, Black x 4, Gray x 29 (39, 49, 59), turn
ROW 32 [LR]: Gray x 29 (39, 49, 59), Black x 4, Gray x 32, Pink x 28, Gray x 7 (17, 27, 37), turn
ROW 33 [RL]: Gray x 8 (18, 28, 38), Pink x 27, Gray x 32, Black x 4, Gray x 29 (39, 49, 59), turn
ROW 34 [LR]: Gray x 29 (39, 49, 59), Black x 4, Gray x 33, Pink x 24, Gray x 10 (20, 30, 40), turn
ROW 35 [RL]: Gray x 12 (22, 32, 42), Pink x 20, Gray x 35, Black x 4, Gray x 29 (39, 49, 59), turn
ROW 36 [LR]: Gray x 29 (39, 49, 59), Black x 4, Gray x 39, Pink x 12, Gray x 16 (26, 36, 46), turn
ROW 37 [RL]: Gray x 67 (77, 87, 97), Black x 4, Gray x 29 (39, 49, 59), turn
ROW 38 [LR]: Gray x 29 (39, 49, 59), Black x 4, Gray x 67 (77, 87, 97), turn
ROW 39 [RL]: Gray x 32 (42, 52, 62), Black x 16, Gray x 19, Black x 4, Gray x 29 (39, 49, 59), turn
ROW 40 [LR]: Gray x 29 (39, 49, 59), Black x 4, Gray x 15, Black x 25, Gray x 27 (37, 47, 57), turn
ROW 41 [RL]: Gray x 24 (34, 44, 54), Black x 10, Gray x 12, Black x 8, Gray x 13, Black x 4, Gray x 29 (39, 49, 59), turn
ROW 42 [LR]: Gray x 29 (39, 49, 59), Black x 4, Gray x 13, Black x 5,Gray x 19, Black x 6, Gray x 24 (34, 44, 54), turn
ROW 43 [RL]: Gray x 67 (77, 87, 97), Black x 4, Gray x 29 (39, 49, 59), turn
ROW 44 [LR]: Gray x 29 (39, 49, 59), Black x 4, Gray x 67 (77, 87, 97), turn
ROW 45 [RL]: Gray x 67 (77, 87, 97), Black x 4, Gray x 29 (39, 49, 59), turn
ROW 46 [LR]: Gray x 29 (39, 49, 59), Black x 4, Gray x 67 (77, 87, 97), turn
ROW 47 [RL]: Gray x 67 (77, 87, 97), Black x 4, Gray x 29 (39, 49, 59), turn
ROW 48 [LR]: Gray x 29 (39, 49, 59), Black x 4, Gray x 67 (77, 87, 97), turn
ROW 49 [RL]: Gray x 67 (77, 87, 97), Black x 4, Gray x 29 (39, 49, 59), turn
ROW 50 [LR]: Gray x 30 (40, 50, 60), Black x 3, Gray x 67 (77, 87, 97), turn

For M/L, XL/2X, 3X/4X only
ROW 51 [RL]: Gray x _ (120, 140, 160), turn ROW 52 [LR]: Gray x _ (120, 140, 160), turn
ROW 53 [RL]: Gray x _ (120, 140, 160), turn ROW 54 [LR]: Gray x _ (120, 140, 160), turn

In the last row place the marker to indicate the middle of the row: 50 (60, 70, 80), place the marker 50 (60, 70, 80)

Neckline

XS/S, M/L, XL/2X, 3X/4X
ROW 1 [RL]: CH3, work 1 DC in each St until 10 stitches remain before the marker, 2 HDC, 2 SC, 12 Sl St, 2 SC, 2 HDC, DC till end, turn
ROW 2 [LR]: CH3, work 1 DC in each St until 15 stitches remain before the marker, 2 HDC, 2 SC, 22 Sl St, 2 SC, 2 HDC, DC till end, turn
ROW 3 [RL]: CH3, work 1 DC in each St until 20 stitches remain before the marker, 2 HDC, 2 SC, 32 Sl St, 2 SC, 2 HDC, DC till end, turn

For M/L, XL/2X, 3X/4X Only
ROW 4 [LR]: CH3, work 1 DC in each St until 25 stitches remain before the marker, 2 HDC, 2 SC, 42 Sl St, 2 SC, 2 HDC, DC till end, turn
ROW 5 [RL]: CH3, work 1 DC in each St until 30 stitches remain before the marker, 2 HDC, 2 SC, 52 Sl St, 2 SC, 2 HDC, DC till end, turn

For XL/2X, 3X/4X Only
ROW 6 [LR]: CH3, work 1 DC in each St until 35 stitches remain before the marker, 2 HDC, 2 SC, 62 Sl St, 2 SC, 2 HDC, DC till end, turn
ROW 7 [RL]: CH3, work 1 DC in each St until 40 stitches remain before the marker, 2 HDC, 2 SC, 72 Sl St, 2 SC, 2 HDC, DC till end, turn

For 3X/4X Only
ROW 8 [LR]: CH3, work 1 DC in each St until 45 stitches remain before the marker, 2 HDC, 2 SC, 82 Sl St, 2 SC, 2 HDC, DC till end, turn
ROW 9 [RL]: CH3, work 1 DC in each St until 50 stitches remain before the marker, 2 HDC, 2 SC, 92 Sl St, 2 SC, 2 HDC, DC till end, turn

Split Neckline (left shoulder, right when worn)

In the following row we will only be working partially across and leaving the remaining Sts unworked.

ROW 4 (6,8,10): CH 3, work 1 DC in each of next 27 (27, 27, 27) Sts, DC2Tog, turn
ROW 5 (7,9,11): DC2Tog, work 1 DC in each of next 26 (26, 26, 26) Sts, turn
ROW 6 (8,10,12): CH 3, work 1 DC in each of next 25 (25, 25, 25) Sts, DC2Tog.

Opposite Shoulder (right shoulder, left when worn)

ROW 4 (6,8,10): DC2Tog, work 1 DC in each of next 27 (27, 27, 27) Sts, turn
ROW 5 (7,9,11): CH 3, work 1 DC in each of next 26 (26, 26, 26) Sts, DC2Tog, turn
ROW 6 (8,10,12): DC2Tog, work 1 DC in each of next 25 (25, 25, 25) Sts

Fasten off, leave a long tail for seaming last row to the back panel.

Back Panel

Make the base chain 102 (122, 142, 162). The first 99 (119, 139, 159) chain stitches make the foundation chain, while the last 3 make the turning chain) in gray color.

ROW1: DC into the fourth chain from the hook and work 1 DC into each of the next 99 (119, 139, 159) sts, turn
ROW 2: CH3 (counts as first st), DC in each of next 99 (119, 139, 159) sts, turn

Rows 3-56 (62, 68, 72): Repeat Row 2.
Fasten off.

Assembly

Block your panels to the measurements listed above.

Lay your front and back panel together, correct sides facing. Line your stitches
up from both panels evenly. Seam the first shoulder together working through
both panels using your method of choice. Repeat on opposite shoulder. (Pic 2)

Join yarn at the bottom hem of the panels. Seam the sides together from
the bottom up.
Do not seam all the way to the top.
Leave a 7”/18cm, (8”/20cm, 9”/23cm, 10”/25cm) opening for the arm hole.
Repeat on opposite side.

Neckline, Sleeve and Bottom Edge Trim (optional)

Using bright pink yarn (or any you like) embroider blanket stitch edging.
Сreate a few long stitches for the eyelashes (optional)

Weave in all ends.

Copyright notice:
You may not reproduce any of the photos or the text without obtaining written permission from me first. 
Thank you!

How To Crochet Mushroom Granny Square Bag [FREE video tutorial]

How to crochet Mushroom Granny Square

HOW TO CROCHET Mushroom Granny Square [FREE video tutorial & written pattern]

You Will Need:

Yarn: red, white, beige, brown
(I used DK weight yarn)

Use a hook recommended on your yarn ball band
(I used 3.5 mm (E) crochet hook)

The size
Size of the square depends entirely on your gauge and uses yarn.
(My square was 4.5×4.5 in)

ABBREVIATIONS
[US Terms (UK Conversion)]

dc – double crochet (treble crochet)
sc – single crochet (double crochet)
tr – treble crochet (double treble crochet)
hdc – half double crochet (half treble crochet)
ch – chain
st(s) – stitch(es)
sp(s) – space(s)
sl st – slip stitch
yo – yarn over
sk – skip

To avoid any misunderstanding:

Dc2 means work double crochet stitches into the next 2 stitches
Hdc2 means work half double crochet stitches into the next 2 stitches
2Dc means work 2 double crochet stitches into the next stitch
2Hdc means work 2 half double crochet stitches into the next stitch.

Round 1
using red yarn Magic circle Ch3 (count as first st), 7Dc into the circle (change color),
using brown yarn Dc into the circle (change color),
using white yarn 2Dc into the circle (change color),
using brown yarn Dc into the circle (change color)
using red yarn Join with sl st

In round 2 begin to make white spots
Make spots where you want {see video): yarn over, insert hook into the next st, yarn over (red and white colors together) and pull up a loop, yarn over (red color only) and pull through two loops on the hook, yarn over again (red color only) and pull through both loops on the hook.

Round 2
using red yarn Ch3 (count as first st), Dc in the same st, 2Dc in next 7 st (change color),
using brown yarn 2Dc in the same st, Dc in next st (change color),
using white yarn Dc in the same st, Dc in next st (change color),
using brown yarn Dc in the same st, 2Dc in next st (change color)
using red yarn Join with sl st

Round 3
using red yarn Ch3, 2Dc, Dc, 2Dc, Dc, 2Dc, Tc, 2Tc, Tc, 2Tc, Dc, 2Dc, Dc, 2Dc, Dc, 2Dc (cut red yarn),
using brown yarn Dc in the next st, 2Dc in the next st, Dc in the next st (change color),
using white yarn 2Tc in the next st, Tc in the next st (cut white yarn),
using brown yarn 2Dc in the next st, Dc in the next st, 2Dc in the next st, join with sl st

Round 4
using brown yarn Ch3, Dc, 2Dc, Dc2, 2Dc, Dc2, 2Dc, Hdc2, 2Hdc, Hdc2, 2Dc, Dc2, 2Dc, Dc2, 2Dc, Dc2, 2Dc, Dc2, 2Dc, Dc, Hdc, 2Hdc, Hdc, Dc, 2Dc, Dc2, 2Dc, join with sl st and cut the yarn
Dc2 means work double crochet stitches into the next 2 stitches
Hdc2 means work half double crochet stitches into the next 2 stitches
2Dc means work 2 double crochet stitches into the next stitch
2Hdc means work 2 half double crochet stitches into the next stitch.

Round 5
using beige yarn Ch2, Dc2, *Tc, Ch2, Tc, Dc2, Hdc, Sc5, Hdc, Dc2
Repeat * 2 times more, Tc, Ch2, Tc, Dc2, Hdc, Sc5, join with sl st

Round 6
using beige yarn Ch3, Dc3, *2Dc, Ch2, 2Dc, Dc 13 Repeat * 2 times more, Dc 9, join with sl st, cut the yarn.
Weave in all ends.
Wash and block.

Crochet Mushroom Beret [FREE written pattern & video tutorial]

Description: This delightful design features a radiant red beret adorned with whimsical white mushroom spots, creating a cozy and elegant accessory that adds a touch of woodland charm to your style.

Size: One size only. Fits the average adult females head (22-23 in)

Materials Needed:

  • Aran / Medium (4) yarn: red (120g), white (30g)
  • Crochet hook 5 mm
  • Scissors
  • Yarn needle

ABBREVIATIONS
CH = chain
SC = single crochet
DC = double crochet
SK=skip
REP=repeat
ST=stitch
sl st = slip stitch
DEC= decrease / may also be called “crochet two together”

Gauge (hook size 5 mm(H): 14 dc and 7 rows = 10 cm in double crochet

Pattern:

Beret

Rnd 1: Magic circle, ch 3 (counts as first st), dc 11 in the circle.
Chain 3 at beginning of each row count as one stitch.
Pull the tail to close the magic circle, join with sl st on top of chain 3. (12st)

Rnd 2: ch 3, dc in the same st, 2dc in each st around, join with sl st. (24 st)

Rnd 3: ch 3, dc in the same st, *dc in the next st, 2dc in the next st, repeat from* around, join with sl st. (36 st)

Rnd 4: ch 3, dc in the same st, *dc in the next 2 st, 2dc in the next st, repeat from* around, join with sl st. (48 st)

Rnd 5: ch 3, dc in the same st, *dc in the next 3 st, 2dc in the next st, repeat from* around, join with sl st. (60 st)

Rnd 6: ch 3, dc in the same st, *dc in the next 4 st, 2dc in the next st, repeat from* around, join with sl st. (72 st)

Rnd 7: ch 3, dc in the same st, *dc in the next 5 st, 2dc in the next st, repeat from* around, join with sl st. (84 st)

Rnd 8: ch 3, dc in the same st, *dc in the next 6 st, 2dc in the next st, repeat from* around, join with sl st. (96 st)

Rnd 9: ch 3, dc in the same st, *dc in the next 7 st, 2dc in the next st, repeat from* around, join with sl st. (108 st)

Rnd 10: ch 3, dc in the same st, *dc in the next 8 st, 2dc in the next st, repeat from* around, join with sl st. (120 st)

Stop here and measure – should be around 30 cm (12in)

Rnd 11: ch 3, dc in each st around, join with sl st. (120 st)

Rnd 12: ch 3, dc in the next 7st, *dc dec, dc in the next 8 st, repeat from* around, join with sl st. (108 st)

Rnd 13: ch 3, dc in the next 6st, *dc dec, dc in the next 7 st, repeat from* around, join with sl st. (96 st)

Rnd 14: ch 3, dc in the next 5st, *dc dec, dc in the next 6 st, repeat from* around, join with sl st. (84 st)

Rnd 15: ch3, dc in the next 4 sts, *dc dec, dc in the next 5 st, rep from* around, join with sl st. (72 st)

Rnd 16: ch3, dc in the next 3 sts, *dc dec, dc in the next 4 st, rep from* around, join with sl st. (60 st)

Stop here and measure – should be around 17 cm (6.5in)

Rnd 17 (change the color): ch, sc in each st around, join with sl st. (60 st)
Cut the yarn and weave in all ends.

Sports (make a few different sizes spots)

Rnd 1: Magic circle, ch 3 (counts as first st), dc 11 in the circle. (12st)

Rnd 2: ch 3, dc in the same st, 2dc in each st around, join with sl st. (24 st)

Rnd 3: ch 3, dc in the same st, *dc in the next st, 2dc in the next st, repeat from* around, join with sl st. (36 st)

Place spots as you like and sew them.

ENLOY!

FREE VIDEO TUTORIAL 👇

Majestic Cardinal Bird

I didn’t even need inspiration to design this hat. One look at this majestic bird is enough to want to capture it.

First I knitted Cardinal hat on stranded colorwork techniques.  If you’ve knit colorwork find the pattern here

Then I decided to make a crochet option. If you are crocheter find the pattern here


So if you are a knitter or a crocheter, welcome👌

Mushroom Beanie Crochet Pattern

Love my Mushroom hat, but don’t knit, look at this crochet Mushroom beanie☺

Find here

Panda Blanket Crochet Pattern

This cute Panda Blanket will be a great gift for a newborn baby boy

Click to BUY Crochet Pattern